Why are My Tomatoes and Peppers Not Producing?

tomatoes-and-peppers-by-bitmaprYour tomatoes and peppers are very sensitive to the amount of nitrogen you give them, where many other plants are not.

The Hack:  Low nitrogen fertilizers or mulches until the first fruits are the size of golf balls (they’re recommending a 6-24-24 (N-P-K)), then switching to a higher nitrogen content such as 15-15-15 or 20-20-20 when the plants can utilize the extra nitrogen.  This hack works for Tomatoes, peppers and eggplant, too.  Wonder if the same happens to their cousin the potato?  Any one know?  Please sign in and leave a note!

Cleveland, OH Home & Garden – Inside & Out – cleveland.com .

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What fruits can I grow in my garden?

berries

berries

A friend of mine asked: “So, what fruits can I grow in my garden?” The easy answer: the three types of fruit for the home gardener that are easy to grow:  strawberries, blueberries and raspberries.  Berries?  They’re not fruits! Okay, picky, picky – tomatoes are fruits… 😉

The Hack: bigger strawberries, june producing variety, other than 1-2″ of water per week during growing season and at least six hours of sun  “…The spaced-row method limits the number of daughter plants allowed to grow. Mother plants are planted 2 feet apart in rows 3 to 4 feet apart. The daughter plants are spaced to root no closer than 4 inches apart and all other runners are removed. This method takes more care, but results in higher yields, larger berries and fewer problems with disease. …”

Day neutral and everbearing take a different technique.  Lots of great information and tips from Daily Herald | Growing small fruit in the home garden.

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Returns from the Day – Turning Tillage into Tomato Sauce

Chutneys and pestos and sauce, oh MY!

Chutneys and pestos and sauce, oh MY!

Returning from the farmer’s market with unsold goods means a monster salad to be eaten that night, or locally grown compost material that has a hidden value: “…As the farmers tracked the economics of their efforts, one found that his tomatoes, sweet peppers, and hot peppers, which came together in pasta sauce, cost $1.70 a jar to make and brought in $4 a jar at retail. Others used tomatoes left over from the weekend farmers’ market or onions that would otherwise be tilled under to capture their value-added returns. …”

The Hack:  How can you create and market produce from the returns of the day?  Tomato sauce? Chutneys? Salsa?  Jellies, jams, preserves?

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More on Dynamic Accumulators: green cover crops

“… Green Manures-An Investment in Your Soil’s Fertility

There are many times during the season, and at different stages of plant growth, when you can till under a cover crop. Each time has virtues and drawbacks, and choosing a time is much like picking a savings plan. You can invest wisely or squander your capital, but no single plan is “the best” – for protection, use a number of plans, each for a specific situation.

Short-Term Investments, Rapid Return
Succulent young plant tissue has the highest amount of readily available nutrients. For a quick return on your investment, grow dynamic accumulators until just before they bloom, then turn them under as a green manure. They will release nutrients quickly for the crop that follows. However, you must wait three to four weeks before planting, while the soil digests the green manure. If you plant earlier, your crop will get less nitrogen, since much of the nitrogen will be tied up in the bodies of microorganisms. Once they digest the manure, large numbers die and decompose, releasing nitrogen for the crop.

Long-Term Investments, Slow Payback
Dry, dead plant material does not have as much nitrogen as green foliage, and the nitrogen is firmly bound up in a form that does not easily decompose. This can be a liability or an asset – depending on your investment strategy. If you need plenty of nitrogen in the next few months, do not till under dead cover crops. The soil’s bacteria will be so busy trying to digest what you tilled under that little, if any, nitrogen would reach your crops.

As a long-term deposit, however, tilling dead plants under is an ideal way to keep organic matter and nitrogen in the soil. In fact, nature uses this investment scheme often – the forest is littered with the branches and trunks of these “long-term accounts.” The slow decay and the billions of bacteria tying up nitrogen in their bodies ensure that this precious element does not leach or vaporize. …”

Urban Orchards : Grow Your Own Fertilizers.

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Should I compost the weeds?

Dandelion: lowly or holy?

Dandelion: lowly or holy?

After a long day of weeding, you have a wheelbarrow full of “useless” plant matter (if you haven’t been keeping up with the mulching, that is). Should you compost the weeds? From the University of Oregon, here’s a list of what you can get from harvesting your weeds and composting them: Dynamic Accummulator Weeds.  Includes a printable version. There’s another connection at the permaculture wiki: http://permaculture.wikia.com/wiki/Dynamic_accumulators that breaks a lot of them down into descriptions instead of a chart. Wikipedia has a similar link with additional information up front http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dynamic_accumulator. There’s a good light article at http://hubpages.com/hub/Dynamic-Accumulators-for-Better-Soil that goes into some more detail as well,  suggesting you can use some of these as cover crops or companion plants. For the book hungry, there’s a book listed in the usenet newsgroups: Designing And Maintaining Your Edible Landscape Naturally that amazon currently sells, though you may be able to get it at the local library as well.  Mentioned are the more obscure sulfur accumulators:

"...Calamus, Caragreen, Coltsfoot, Eyebright,
Fennel, Garlic, Meadowsweet, Mullien, Mustards, Nettle, Plantain, Rest
harrow, Watercress, waywort.

"The Fennel , mullien and many mustards have nice taproots.
Nettle, Meadowsweet, coltsfoot, plantain are all good on moist sites. ..."

– from [permaculture] Guild assembly and dynamic accumulators

Bottom line: I compost the weeds.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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More Factory Farms – are Free-Range Veggies a Thing of the Past?

There are some pets that cannot survive in the wild, or – are there? Okay, maybe the silkworm but… how’d I get on that tangent?  Indoor farming: is it a threat or a salvation?  Hard to have erosion in a greenhouse, but tornadoes would be worse than the special effects in Harry Potter 5.

Seems to me, that permaculture is the long-range fix, while the trend to “indoor  farming” should be thought of as transitional, or as a stop-gap/seed saving step.

Farming heading indoors – Health and Science – The Times-Tribune.

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How can I keep the caterpillars off my cabbage?

Perhaps someone else can chime in on this, but other than covering the cabbages with a floating row cover (works as long as you do it before you see the cabbage moths) or using BT, does planting the purple variety allow you (and the birds) to see the caterpillars on the plants? Hmmm.  I’ll have to try that this year.  Maybe some purple broccoli, too.
The Problem: How can I keep the caterpillars off my cabbage?
The Hack: cover your cabbage crops with a floating row coverto keep the caterpillars away.

 


 

 

 

GARDENING : Fruits & Vegetables : Growing Tips : DIY Network.

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For the Obsessive Compulsive, for Rainy Days, for Black Fly Season

I’d always see the expensive packs of “seed strips” which were more expensive than buying the carrots fully grown in the supermarket and shake my head.  Suddenly it hit me – you should be able to make your own, and you can plant those small seeds quickly and minimize the black fly bites.

The Hack: Quickly plant rows without getting bitten by bugs, save time by multitasking:

  • Newspaper
  • flour
  • water
  • paintbrush (small) or eyedropper
  • seeds
  • scissors
  • tweezers (if needed)
  • Jar or plastic bag
  • and time (a rainy day, a soap opera (do they still run those things?) 
  1. Cut the newspaper into strips
  2. Make a paste from the flour (not corn flour or starch, as corn gluten’s a pre-emergent herbicide)
  3. Place Dots of paste on the strips with the small brush or eyedropper 
  4. Put seed on each drop
  5. Set aside to dry

Be sure that the seed tapes are dry before you store them, or you’ll have moldy bits of newspaper that probably won’t germinate.  If you have any dessicant (the “Do Not Eat This Package” packages found in many electronics), you can put them into the jar or bag as well to help keep things  fresh.

 You could also try freezing them, but I haven’t done this yet, and you’d want to double-bag them to keep the frost away.

An Heirloom Seed Library Thats a Work of Art, Literally : TreeHugger

 

 

Photo credit: Treeo Design/Hudson Valley Seed Library

 

I was surprised and delighted to see seeds from the Hudson Valley – the “unknown” part of New York between the Catskills and the City.

 

 “…Based in upstate New York, the Hudson Valley Seed Library offers more than 20 varieties of locally grown seed, most of them native to the region. By 2014, the company plans to source 100 percent of its inventory from local organic and certified naturally grown New York farms. …”

Editor’s Note: There are many “kills” in New York – not meaning the taking of life, but meaning creek in old Flemish (ie: fish creek, cat’s creek, cobles creek, etc.). 

via Treehugger An Heirloom Seed Library Thats a Work of Art, Literally : TreeHugger.

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FutureCrop – We Want Free-Range Tomatoes!

 

Factory Farms of the Future?

Factory Farms of the Future?

Sorry, looking over the “fields” in this photo may actually be our future, if we’re not more careful with the water we use.  It’s actually a good article.

 

Greener greenhouses – Houweling Nurseries hothouse – Los Angeles Times.

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