Day 32 – Carrots!

Purple carrots with orange centersCarrots – a mixture of Imperator(88%)  and Cosmic Purple (12%) went into two rows so far, one “row” (two banana boxes), and one foot in the Hugelkultur (I’ll have to see if that’s a pronoun) bed.  Since I had my hat and netting on, the black flies were just background noise as opposed to vision blocking ear buzzing nuisances.  The south side of the beds I was very careful with, planting in one inch rows, tipping and tapping the envelope to try to keep them even.  On the north side I did the “pinch and scatter”, then covered with a light coating of soil using the back of the rake on the open bed, and just covered with potting soil in the banana boxes.  The skies were looking very strange.  To the south of us in Springfield MA, two tornadoes touched down and injured a number of people, as well as doing damage to a good sized populated area.

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Day 31 Some Growing, Some Groaning

Most of the beds are showing signs of life. I overplanted in a couple of areas, other areas not much is showing up. Broccoli is overplanted in the lasagna bed, 25% germination in the wicking bed – about 50% germination in the hugelkultur bed. The banana box beds are doing just fine, too, at about 80% germination.  Just planted the squash and the peppers in the banana box bed.

Beyond that, spent a total of one hour (making up for yesterday), including weeding around the edges. Found a few “volunteer” potatoes from last year and divided them up between all the beds except the banana boxes, where I have no room.

Still trying to figure out the best way to plant the carrots – the seeds are so tiny, and having typically 30 minutes/day to devote to the gardening as well as the different type of beds (from boxes to mounds) I don’t think there’s any one way to do it.  I like the broadcast method located at tribe.com: “…When I’ve done it by hand (and yes, they blow away, it’s best to plant around 6 pm, when the wind dies down) I broadcast the seed into a prepared bed about 1′ wide and built up. I spill the seeds from the package into my left hand (I’m right handed), pinch some seeds with my thumb and 1st 3 fingers (right hand) and make a sweeping zig-zag motion, using a sprinkling action with my thumb, across the row moving along the row as I sow. Then, take a rake, points up, and gently move the soil across, covering only slightly. Tamp down with the rake after. Keep watered.

As they grow, and the biggest carrots reach about pinky finger size, I pull them, and we have delish baby carrots. Keep pulling the biggest of them ’til there’s enough room for the other’s to grow big. Usually, I never have to give my carrot plot a rest from these ‘thinnings’ and we eat from the same row all summer. …”

The Yardener has a great article about carrots as well, and some good ideas about succession planting.  I’ll have to plant succession style (every two weeks) into four beds to compare, though, so I guess one row/each bed/2 weeks. … Time to invoke the Mayan Google calendar.

Any one else have any successful ways of planting carrots?

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Day 28 – Blast the Ballasts! Full Steam Ahead!

The grow lights (T8 Fluorescents) gave out on me today, following our sump pump alarm and the sump pump the day before, with a pinhole leak in the bathtub’s hot water pipe and an outlet dying in the kitchen. Ah home moanership.

Despite these setbacks, the tomatoe plants are catching up, and I have to redo my map of the garden, or do some transplanting, since the only room left is near the potatoes, where you DON’T want to put the tomatoes.  Thank goodness I don’t have any more to do…;)Home owner with wrench under the sink, while water shoots from the range top, and the fridge begins to leak.
Watering and setting up banana boxes took up the thirty minutes yesterday, and probably could have sped that up a bit too, but I want to get some pics of the banana boxes in progress. Yesterday was my “day off” dealing with electrical issue and taking a much needed break with my girls to a nearby lake. They went in and swam, found salamanders under the water (or mudskippers or something – I only saw a shadow while my eldest, blue-lips from the cold, continued to attempt to chase them to shore).

Day 26 – Review

Here’s where we’re at so far: the bright green beds are planted, the olive beds are waiting for the Gardenhacker to make more time and get out and plant!

Spreadsheet showing the different garden beds with the different crops.

Just eleven more 3' by 3' beds to plant...

Peppers and squash will probably go out next, while I think about how to keep the fur bearin’ so-and-so’s from my carrots this year.  My successful beds were within an enclosed area, where rabbits couldn’t get in and dine. Now that they’re out in the open, (the last couple of years), they’ve been eaten by something…  stay tuned to find out what I decide – probably going to be several different deterrents, just like the several different beds we’re experimenting with this year.
I’m testing out Feedshark, so that’s what the link below is.
Hypersmash

Day 25 – Overdue on the Mulching

Potato plant, almost 12 inches tall, thanks to all the rain.

Time to mulch the potato plants!

Just the top of the potato plant sticking out about 1 inch, mulch piled to 1/2 inch below the leaves.

Mulched to within 1/2" of the bottom of the first leaves.

The Potatoes grew almost one foot since planting, and were overdue for mulching. Fortunately, the lawn also needed cutting, so there were clippings to spare. Straw works well, especially in the beginning of the season, but toward the end it’s better to switch to grass clippings, as they block out more of the sun.

 

 

Comfrey to the left, Strawberries to the right.

Comfrey to the left, strawberries to the right.

The strawberries enjoyed the rain as well, both the cultivated variety and the alpine strawberries that are growing all over the lawn. A new set of broccoli seeds rounded out the day of planting and tending at about forty-five minutes, not including cutting the lawn for two hours (and still have the back to cut!).

 

 

After the rains, the slugs were out in droves as well.  Most of them munching on earthworm remains on the road, there were some large ones eating the towel roll “shields” I had put around the cukes and peas to keep away the cutworms.  I decided it was time for “shields up” – or shells up, when it comes down to it.  My daughter’s ravenous appetite has left us with a surplus of eggshells.  The slugs will eat the “skin” on the inside of the shell if it can reach it, but they stay away from the shells.  Nothing wrong with a little extra calcium, and the shells are translucent and light enough to set on top of the seedlings with no adverse effects.

Eggshell on top of a paper towel roll that is shielding a snow-pea seedling from both slugs and cutworms

Eggshell on top of a paper towel roll that is shielding a snow-pea seedling from both slugs and cutworms.

Groceries from Your Groceries

Up to 1/3 of what comes home as fresh produce ends up in the compost heap. Half of that can be grown or extended. Everything from Beet greens to Zucchini can be coaxed on in one way or another. You can either extend their production, such as celery or create new crops or seeds.

Vegetables:

(T)ops can be cut up to ½” below their base and rooted in water, then soil, the greens used in salads, with some exceptions like carrots and parsnips, which you can use as a seed source (never eat carrot or parsnip greens!) Biennial plants such as beets, brussel sprouts, carrots, celery, lettucce parsley, parsnip,
(H)earts can be extended by cutting them above the base with enough of the plant to continue it growing, or removing leaves until the remaining part is too small to eat, then using toothpicks to hold it above the bottom of a glass, like an avocado seed until it roots, or planting in warm moist soil. Celery can be grown this way by cutting it two to three inches above it’s base.
Seed Sources are typically from biennials such as carrots, and from squashes and melons that were too mature.  Depending on how friendly you are with your grocer, you may be able to get some of these fruits and veggies that are “past their prime”

With horseradish, you will have to shop for one that has some green sprouts starting on the top, and cut about two inches below this. Let it “heal” (sit indoors away from direct sunlight) for a day or two, then plant it in the ground with just the green (crown) showing.

Beets (T) – Greens, seed source
Carrots (T)(Seed Source Only!)
Parsnips(T) (Seed Source Only!)
Turnips (T) – Greens, seed source
Bok Choy (H) – Greens – (brassica)
Cabbage (H) – Greens, seed source (brassica)
Celery (H) – Greens, seed source
Radicchio (H) – Greens, seed source
Horseradish (T) – root, seed source
Squash/Courgettes – seed source
Melons – seed source

Some lettuce variety have been known to be extended, such as romaine, and – if you can find them – hydroponically grown lettuce heads (with the roots still attached).

Fruits and Grains

You can harvest seeds from fruits and plant them again. Many people have grown citrus trees from their pips, and if you’re lucky you will get fruits from them as well. Apples, avocado, and other trees are long term commitments as are grapes and berries but annual fruiting plants such as tomato, pepper, corn and squash (pumpkin, winter squash, etc.) can be sources of seeds for your garden next season. Always have a backup of your favorite fruits and vegetables, because you cannot tell whether the groceries you have bought are hybrids with little or no viability. Grains I have never tried, but there have been successes with them. Be careful, nowadays with law-suit happy Mega companies, it will be better (and may be healthier) to source local seeds.
A partial list includes: Squash, Melons, Tomato, Peppers, Corn, Amaranth, Quinoa, Wild rice

Propagating Down Under – or – I’ll Take The Tube(r)

Potatoes, Jerusalem artichokes (which are American native plants), ginger, yams, sweet potato can all be grown if they’ve been kept long enough under the proper conditions. We typically have potatoes that begin to sprout. I put them in the garden, away from my favorite (King Harry) potatoes just in case there is some type of disease, and typically they get eaten by the bugs that King Harry’s are well defensed against (King Harry potatoes have hairy leaves, they are not hairy potatoes!). Jerusalem artichokes are also easily grown, and will proliferate, so choose their homes wisely – they will be hard to evict once they are established.
Yams and sweet potatoes can be treated just like potatoes, or you can put one into a moist container that sits in a warm area, out of direct sunlight, and wait for the sprouts to show. Put the sweet potato into a place that gets strong sunlight, and wait until you have three leaves on a “slip”. from this point, you can rub the slip off of the plant gently with your thumb, and place it into some soil so it will root. The sweet potato will continue to create slips until it is exhausted. Note: some sweet potatoes only take weeks to accomplish this, others take months.

Bulbs (onion, garlic, leeks)

Have you ever left ½ an onion in the fridge, only to find the center growing and the outer edges rotting? Time to place that in the soil and get it to grow! You can get it to seed this year (if it’s early enough in the season) and plant the seeds next year.
You can do the same with garlic cloves. Simply take the small cloves that are not worth crushing and place them pointy side up into the soil. You can either get garlic sprouts, or gather the seeds for next year.

Dried Beans Beans (all types)

There are a multitude of dried beans in most grocery stores. They are often viable, too. If you use them regularly, take about ten of them and fold them into a wet paper towel. Put the towel in a ziplock bag and wait for seven to fourteen days to see if they sprout. If they do, you can plant them out and harvest your own beans to dry by the end of the season. Lentils, mung beans, pinto beans chick peas, black beans – they all can be cultivated. Split peas won’t work – or if they do, you’ll only get half a crop… (kidding).

Herbs

Most herbs will not do well as cuttings, and it’s best to start these from seed. Exceptions being any herbs that come with roots, such as lemon grass, and ginger. These can be propagated by placing them into potting soil in a slightly warm location and keeping them moist.

For a complete book of groceries you can grow from your groceries, check out Don’t Throw It, Grow It!: 68 windowsill plants from kitchen scraps.
Book Illustration - "Don't Throw it, Grow it!

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Day 24 – missing about five days due to rain…

…but the slugs love it! They ate through most of my peas, and several other plantings. Added some egg shells to the surviving plants – see if they like THAT! Something was digging in my broccoli on the wicking bed (this bed I has put a killing mulch down on, and there are cuts in the newspaper that I didn’t make – will have to get the camera out there tomorrow). Hoping there are still broccoli seeds in there! The other broccoli plantings don’t appear to have been disturbed, but it’s hard to say. Have to make up a bunch of time on the planting.

Day 22 – Indoors

Potted up a lot of potting soil and planted three types of tomato seeds: Early Girl, Lincoln and Oregon Spring. Out of thirty two plantings, I hope to be able to give a few away. Would have been better if I had started on May 1 instead of May 22, but you can’t always follow your plans.

Dense Planting in the Lasagna Bed

Dense Planting in the Lasagna Bed

Day 18 – Glue and Humidity

Planting the rest of the broccoli and trying to vlog it as well, the bottom of my broccoli seed packet came unglued, spilling it’s contents into the soil.  Salvaged as much as I could (these were going into the banana box bed), I was unable to plant the second box.  Next trip into the center of town will net me another packet of broccoli, but it won’t be the same ones I’d gotten from Amazon.

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